S.A.P.E
Ils arrivent de Brazzaville, nouvellement indépendante, et inventent la SAPE, la Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes. Jeunes et pauvres, ils se ruinent pour s'habiller avec la plus grande élégance et aller parader le long des «chaînes», place de la République. Ces «aventuriers», comme ils se nomment eux-mêmes, investissent la quasi-totalité de leurs salaires dans le style et les griffes. Sappés comme des dandys, théâtraux, ces «professeurs» ou «gentlemen» jouent à brouiller les codes sociaux,eux qui savent que le vêtement est un «fait social total».
Cette série de photographies a été faite avec Jocelyn Armel dit «Le Bachelor», un des vétérans du mouvement. Sa boutique rue de Panama dans le quartier de la Goutte d'Or demeure un des centres de la vie des sapeurs parisiens. Immigration et dandysme africain à Paris.
• Texte :
Manuel Charpy
• Equipe photo :
Manuel Charpy, Pablo Grand Mourcel & Kevin Ngomsik

"In Congo-Brazzaville SAPE is an old passion that has never stopped, not even during war years. At the arrival of the French in Congo at the beginning of 9oo, the mith of elegance was born among young people working for the settlers. In 1922, Andrè Grenard Matsoua, well-known for his resistance to the settlers, was the first Congolese to come back from Paris, well dressed like a true French "Monsieur", greatly admired by all his fellow citizens. Today's members of the SAPE consider themselves as artists and are respected and admired by the whole community. " Sape is an art that is not referred to the means people have at their disposal. It's a matter of harmony and matching colours". Making up his own clothes, choosing the right accessories, surely answers a clothing code as well as the pleasure of being unique and original.
The members of the SAPE take a touch of glamour into their humble environment with their refined style and faultless clothes. Everyone has his own repertory of gestures, marking him from all the others. Elegance is not the only important character.(...) These extemporized and spontaneous parades are the expression of a urban culture looking for new reference parameters and codes such as no-violence and elegance. They reflect the wish of young people in particular not to be left apart by society."
• Text:
Francesco Giusti's quote
• Model:
Jocelyn Armel aka. "The Bachelor" sitting for us in his store in Paris "CONNIVENCES" which is one of headquarters of parisian "sapers" 'life. J.Armel is also one of SAPE old hands.
•Photography:
Manuel Charpy, Pablo Grand Mourcel & Me